End of a love story as Table Mountain bids farewell to its favourite son

Bastab K Parida
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Cape Town is a wanderlust’s paradise. A click on Google and you will be directed to some stunning photographs of pristine white beaches coupled with a craggy mountain range. With Zeitz MOCAA, the city has also become a spot for the biggest repository of contemporary African art.

In simple words, Cape Town is everything that we all want in life. Be it some laidback time near the foothills of Table Mountain, or delving deep into the heritage with excellent art galleries, hip bars, and design-savvy shops in the City Centre, it is a city that keeps on giving. It is a city that also holds one of the most iconic cricket venues in the world. 

Newlands might not have been “the Fortress” for South Africa, Centurion does the job so well, nor it is the grandest old venue in the country - St George's Park stands tall with all its glory - but it is a venue that makes a South African happy. Just after the New Year, the venue turns even more beautiful, with passing clouds hugging Table Mountain dearly. Fireworks and beer - it’s a place to be. 

It is also a place to be for Vernon Philander, South Africa’s one of the most underrated heroes. 16 years ago, in a provincial final between Western Province and KwaZulu-Natal, the Ravensmead suburb boy stood apart with a spell of seam bowling that made him stand apart. Although it took time to break through to the national Test team, once he did, Big Vern emerged as one of the biggest success stories of the decade gone by. Quite fittingly, at the heart of it, was Newlands. 

53 wickets at the venue at an average of a shade over 18 are not the figures of your average cricketer and Philander was never your average cricketer. There are so many matches where he dominated the opposition, but nothing captured my imagination as much as his six-wicket burst against India in 2018 and another 5 for 15 against Australia on his Test debut as South Africa won by eight wickets despite being bowled out for 96. These were two performances that told the world how good he was and how South Africa were the ultimate losers for delaying his arrival on a stage that he should have been of him long ago. 

Against India, in that game, Virat Kohli, who had crossed the limits of being invincible in the season gone by, stood between an India loss and South Africa’s despondency. It was the wicket South Africa needed desperately after Dale Steyn picked up an injury. Despite the presence of Kagiso Rabada, of fire and brimstone, all eyes were set on the Philander-Kohli duel. Not because Kohli was finding it difficult to tackle the seam movement, but because the probing line that the local lad was bowling with. 

Philander kept on landing good length balls, nothing to drive, nothing too full, questioning the Indian skipper’s forward defense. In isolation, it could have been the battle of the summer in Australia where Josh Hazlewood kept Kohli’s front-foot busy and Mitchell Starc made some early inroads with Pat Cummins playing the major role. But it was Newlands, the scene was something else, and keeping the best batsman of the opposition’s front-foot busy is the best thing you can do. If anything, unlike Australia, a bowler gets rewarded for doing the tough job time and time again in South Africa and think what, the Big Vern came with a total of six wickets to his name, including the big fish Kohli.

As far as sheer averages go, the Bullring had seen the fury of Philander more than Newlands. In seven Tests alone in Johannesburg, the 34-year-old had more success, averaging 15.69 - the best among everyone who has a minimum of 20 wickets. The Bullring is a buzzing place, unlike the quaint atmosphere of Cape Town, and it doesn’t help his style of bowling but Philander didn’t mind putting up a show. But if the home is where the heart is, he always wanted to return to comforts of Newlands where he learnt the crafts of the game, honed it and eventually rose to become one of Western Province's cult hero.

"This has been a special place to me. It's been good to me. From 2003 to 2020 - 17 years of playing at this pretty venue, this wonderful venue and [in front of] the Newlands faithful. You come in here and you still see the same faces from 2003, still coming to support us. There's no better place to be playing your cricket," Philander had said ahead of the second Test.

Yesterday, when things seemed bleak for South Africa, with the ghosts of everything wrong with their cricket starting to them yet again, it was Big Vern who put up the final fight. He battled hard, this time with the bat, as if his life was dependent on the match. He eventually failed as a Ben Stokes back of a length delivery found a faint edge off his glove to bring an end to his innings. But like most things in his nine-year-long Test career for South Africa, he gave it his all.

It was fitting that the Newlands saw the fight of the Big Vern for one last time, with its grandeur and few pints of beer. The Newlands faithful would have wished the fireworks to light up the sky, though, to salute the man who has always been there - resolute and uncompromising, inducing yet another batting collapse.  

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